Surfed Swami’s on Tuesday from 12 – 4. Probably one of the best sessions I’ve had all year. Bright sunshine, clear blue water, and 4-6ft with some solid 8′ set waves still rolling through. I didn’t get any of the biggest set waves, but I did get some incredibly fun, bowly, 6ft righthanders that let me do a few fun turns. Swami’s, I’ve decided, can be really effin fun. You just have to go when it’s not overly crowded. I love the way the wave bends through the outside bowl, then reforms on the inside. I feel like I’ve been surfing well, and I’m really stoked on surfing at the moment. Can’t wait to go again in the morning.