No Time For Love Dr. Jones


Surfed Swami’s on Tuesday from 12 – 4.  Probably one of the best sessions I’ve had all year.  Bright sunshine, clear blue water, and 4-6ft with some solid 8′ set waves still rolling through.  I didn’t get any of the biggest set waves, but I did get some incredibly fun, bowly, 6ft righthanders that let me do a few fun turns.  Swami’s, I’ve decided, can be really effin fun.  You just have to go when it’s not overly crowded.  I love the way the wave bends through the outside bowl, then reforms on the inside.  I feel like I’ve been surfing well, and I’m really stoked on surfing at the moment.  Can’t wait to go again in the morning.

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