Recently got back from my trip home to NY, and we’re back in action here in Southern California
Amy, Sara, and Taylor drove down to Encinitas yesterday to hang, surf, and skate. Fun times!
Recently got back from my trip home to NY, and we’re back in action here in Southern California
Amy, Sara, and Taylor drove down to Encinitas yesterday to hang, surf, and skate. Fun times!
Been out of the water for about a week with a neck strain. It’s been nice to get back out in the lineup. Swami’s has been nice the past few days but incredibly crowded. I remember last year if you went during the day on a weekday it wasn’t too bad, crowd-wise. I think a lot of spots are temporarily messed up from all the dredging they did recently (too much sand, etc) because I’m seeing a lot of Grandview and Pipes guys out in the lineup at Swami’s.
Today Swami’s was really doing it’s thing, and even though my wave count was a little low, the ones I did get were really fun. Also got caught inside and swept south of the stairs a few times by big multi-wave sets that had the entire inside looking like a bathtub of foam.
After a night out at the Departure art show in Leucadia, we went back to the residence of Mani and Christine to have some beer and tequila. These two are the definition of stoke, and they always want to share it. Mani gave us some party favors to take home – surfboards! I have to tell you, Mani Caro is one of the nicest and most genuine people I have met. I knew about him as a shaper before even meeting him, and I’m stoked to have gotten to know him. His boards are the illustration alongside the surfing dictionary definition of “clean lines” and he has a very distinctive style. He was generous enough to let us all take a board from his collection to try out. Everyone walked home by starlight with a gleaming white board under their arm. Classic Leucadia night.
Ornella gave me some video clips when she was here last month that were shot on her recent travels by Casey Rossi. She asked me to put it together for an Innersection entry. Here it is! It was interesting editing someone else’s footage – haven’t really done that before. It was a new kind of challenge, but I had fun with it. I did take some of the footage – the shots at CB’s mini-ramp.
If you have a chance, go and give us a good rating!
http://innersection.tv/videos/ornella-pellizzari?sort=
I had originally made this title card, but they didn’t use it: